Riad Fès

Five houses, four patios

Riad Fès is a former notable's residence in the Zerbtana district of Fes el-Bali, five minutes' walk from Batha square. Its owners describe themselves as pioneers in restoring the medina's riads; the house belongs to the Fez architect Chakir Sefrioui, and the Michelin Guide notes that an architect's hand shows in the layout. The hotel has 30 rooms, including 8 suites, spread over five connected buildings: large for a riad, small for a hotel.

The house is organised around four patios in different styles, and that is what sets it apart from its neighbours.

• The classic patio, with its chased brass chandelier, carved cedar doors, zellige and stucco: the setting of a Fassi palace.
• The Andalusian patio, arcaded, around a pool and a fountain.
• The baroque patio, which takes Fassi codes and plays with them, planted with ferns and fig trees like a winter garden. It recalls a specific era: between 1880 and 1930, Fez merchants settled in Manchester, Barcelona, Lyon or Marseille and brought back new ways of furnishing the house, dressing and cooking.
• The contemporary patio, around the swimming pool.

There is also a garden of orange trees and palms, with a Carrara marble fountain, and a library of books on Fez and its history.

Christophe Pillet's contribution

In 2011 the French designer Christophe Pillet led the riad's extension. He created the 14 m pool, usable all year round, lined with a large green wall, with an African-style lounge overlooking the water; and the 200 m² spa, in stone and wood, with two hammam cabins, three massage rooms, a treatment room and a relaxation room. Treatments are designed by the brands Cinq Mondes and marocMaroc. An infrared sauna and a gym complete the facilities.

Three years later, Christophe Pillet designed Hotel Sahrai, opened by the same family on the Dhar El Mehraz hill: the two houses answer each other, one inside the medina, the other above it.

A grand house's table

The Michelin Guide, which has awarded Riad Fès one Key, points out that it has a real restaurant, still rare in a riad. Gayza is set in a dining room with oriental decor, beside a large fireplace in green and gold zellige, overlooking the pool. Two chefs share the menu: Abida, who has run the kitchens for some twenty years and passes on the Fassi cooking handed down in her family, and Michel Nave, Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a title awarded by competition to France's finest craftsmen) and former second-in-command to Pierre Gagnaire, who brings French cuisine. Service runs from 12:15 to 1:45 pm and from 7:15 to 10:45 pm local time.

Dress code: the restaurant, bar and rooftop require smart dress. Flip-flops and plastic sandals, bum bags and football shirts are not allowed; after 7 pm, neither are shorts or Bermudas, except for children under 12; backpacks and large bags go to the luggage room. Worth knowing before you pack.

Gayza Le Bar serves a light menu under the orange trees, also available by the pool, a tea menu from 4 pm, then Moroccan and international wines and cocktails in the evening. The buffet breakfast mixes Moroccan pancakes (meloui, baghrir), smoked Atlas trout and homemade yoghurt; it is open to non-residents from 7 to 10 am for 240 dirhams.

The rooftop, the medina's high point

According to the house, the rooftop terrace is the highest point in the medina. The view takes in the city's monuments, the ramparts, the forts and the two mountains that guard it, Tghat and Zalagh. From 2 to 11 pm the rooftop bar serves tapas with its wines and cocktails; Moroccan wine tastings are also held there. At sunset, the muezzins' calls to prayer join in.

What the concierge offers

The concierge arranges a guided tour of the medina from 300 dirhams per person, a ramparts tour by horse-drawn carriage or bike, a day to Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and Meknes along the wine route, a cooking class that starts at the market, an Arabic calligraphy class with a master calligrapher, and a picnic in a caidal tent on a farm nearby. For golfers, the riad books tee times and transfers to the region's four courses, including the Royal Golf de Fès.

Sabaro's view

For whom: couples, heritage and architecture lovers, travellers who want to dine in without giving up the medina.

Strengths: four patios that make four atmospheres; the pool and spa, rare at this scale in the medina; a restaurant with two chefs; the rooftop; the Michelin Key and Relais & Châteaux membership.

Good to know: smart dress is required in the dining areas; cars stop at Batha square, three minutes' walk away; with 30 rooms and outside diners, the house is livelier than a small riad.

Our advice: ask for a Deluxe Room on the Andalusian patio or the garden; for a family of up to six, the Royale Suite and its 120 m² terrace over Fez saves booking two rooms.