Hotel Riad Cherifa

Two houses and a governor

Riad Cherifa opened in 2016 by joining two traditional Chefchaouen houses, more than 150 years old, and kept their Andalusian and Moroccan architecture: arched doorways, stained glass, Fez zellige (glazed terracotta mosaic), handmade tiles by local craftsmen, carved cedar woodwork, tadelakt walls (smooth, waterproof lime plaster) and bathrooms in coloured tiles.

The house says it pays tribute to Saida Horra, "the free lady", a figure from the town's history. Born around 1491 in Chefchaouen, the daughter of Ali ibn Rashid, the town's founder, she governed Tetouan from 1515 to 1542. An ally of the corsair Barbarossa, she dominated privateering in the western Mediterranean and negotiated the ransom of captives. In 1541 she married Sultan Ahmad al-Wattasi, who came to Tetouan for the wedding, the only known case of a Moroccan ruler marrying outside his capital. Removed from power in 1542, she retired to Chefchaouen, where she died.

The riad is on Rue Hmed Laaroussi, a quiet lane off Avenue Hassan I, the street linking Bab Souk and Bab Onsar. Outa el Hammam square is less than 200 m away.

A pool in the medina

The house has an open-air pool, walled on three sides, surrounded by potted plants, fountains, loungers and small pavilions. The Moroccan breakfast, included, is served on the terrace beside it.

The hammam, large and tiled in blue and gold, has its own entrance separate from the rest of the hotel. The ritual follows Moroccan tradition: steam, gentle exfoliation, massage, a ghassoul wrap (clay from the Atlas) and a mist of flower water. The spa adds massages, hydrating treatments, a hair salon and a heated pool.

Upstairs, planted terraces look out over the blue rooftops and the mountains.

Twelve rooms in three ranges

The twelve rooms are split into three suites, six standard rooms and three budget rooms, all air-conditioned. Each is slightly different from the others. The standard rooms have a view and a sitting area; triple rooms suit a family. For a couple, choose a suite or a standard room; the budget rooms are simpler.

The house does not serve dinner: in the evening you head out to the restaurants on nearby Outa el Hammam square. It does offer a guided walk through the medina, a day's hiking in the Rif mountains with a guide, and private transfers from the airports and across Morocco, in air-conditioned cars, best booked in advance.

Sabaro's view

Who it suits: couples who want a small house of character, with a pool and hammam, in the heart of the medina.

Strengths: the open-air pool, right in the medina; careful craft decoration; the large hammam; a 4.8/5 rating from nearly 300 Tripadvisor reviews, the top-ranked guesthouse in Chefchaouen.

Good to know: the stairs are narrow and steep; there is no dinner; the internet connection is patchy; in the budget rooms, towels and sheets are charged extra; the paid public car park is a few minutes' walk away.