Benben by Dhara

A rock on a Nubian island

Heissa is a Nubian island in the Nile, upstream of Aswan, with views of the town and the High Dam. The hotel is built on the island's rocks, facing Agilkia Island and Philae Temple, about 700 m away.

Its founder, Mohamed Sarwat, a former television producer, says he once climbed to the top of a rock on the island, the Benben rock, and found there a calm he had been looking for. He first wanted a guesthouse for family and friends; the project became a hotel, opened in 2021, which belongs to the small Egyptian group Dhara Hotels, also present in Cairo.

The building is made of the island's granite, laid without cement, with cork floors and high wooden ceilings. According to the founder, construction followed the terrain: when the builders hit difficult ground, the plan changed, with care taken to disturb the island's environment as little as possible. Every room has its own terrace opening onto the river.

Choosing your view: Philae, the Nile or the mountains

The hotel has 24 rooms and suites, from 23 to 95 m², all for adults. The choice comes down to what you want to see from your jacuzzi.

• Facing Philae: the Premium Double (25 m²) and Premium Queen (30 m²) rooms have a private terrace jacuzzi with the temple opposite. The larger Premium Select rooms (42 to 45 m²) share the view and have Nubian decor; the version with two single beds and a sofa bed sleeps up to four adults, for friends travelling together.
• Facing the Nile: the Deluxe Queen (35 m²) and Deluxe King (41 m²) have a walk-in shower and a terrace jacuzzi over the river.
• The suites: the Junior Suite (76 m²) looks over the Nile and the mountains, the Executive Suite (85 m²) has a large living room and a vast terrace for four adults, and the Infinity Suite (95 m²), glazed onto the panorama, has its own open-air infinity pool.
• The Superior Double (23 m²), on the first level, has a side view of the Nile and the island's rocks: it is the hotel's entry-level room.

Our advice: for a first stay, take a room facing Philae. Having the temple opposite your terrace is the best reason to choose this hotel.

The rhythm of the island

People come to Benben to slow down. The hotel runs yoga classes and meditation sessions on the Benben rock above the river, and the spa offers massages, a hammam, sauna, steam room and a bath fed by a hot spring.

YAM restaurant serves Nubian-inspired Egyptian dishes and international cooking, indoors or outside; room service completes the offer. The Philae Bar & Terrace is the evening spot, for reading, watching the river or playing games with other guests; its menu lists alcohol-free drinks.

Island life depends on the water: a river shuttle links Heissa to the bank 24 hours a day, and you let the hotel know before each crossing. Whether you head for Philae, the West Bank or central Aswan, every outing starts with the boat, which gives the days a slow pace.

Sabaro's view

For whom: couples, solo travellers or friends looking for calm, yoga and the Nile rather than town life.

Strengths: the view of Philae and the river from private jacuzzis; the setting on a Nubian island; a rating of 9.1/10 on Booking.com from 630 reviews, at a price well below that of Aswan's palace hotel.

Good to know: every outing requires a boat crossing; the hotel is adults only; the smallest category, the Superior Double, has a side view.