Tafraout and the Anti-Atlas

A granite amphitheatre

The Anti-Atlas is Morocco's southernmost mountain range, south of the Souss plain. Tafraout, a town of a few thousand people, sits in a basin ringed by pink granite boulders, with palm and almond trees growing between them. The town is known for its round-toed Berber slippers: Routard calls it the capital of the babouche.

North of the town, the Ameln Valley lines up twenty-six villages at the foot of Jebel el Kest, which rises to 2,359 m. The stone houses cling to the slopes above the fields. In Oumesnat, a traditional house run by a family is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm local time, for 10 dirhams: a guest room with its own entrance, animal quarters, and a terrace where the family slept in summer.

Walking in the Ameln Valley

The valley is best explored on foot, from village to village. Two routes give an idea:

• from Oumesnat to Anameur, about 12 km and three hours' walk along the villages;
• the loop over the pass, about three hours, starting from the R104 road near Ighalene, returning towards Tafraout.

Jebel el Kest can also be climbed, but the easiest route is not obvious: a guide is advisable. For more ambitious walkers, the Anti-Atlas lends itself to multi-day treks.

Art and traces in the rock

• The painted rocks. In 1984, the Belgian artist Jean Verame painted granite boulders blue about 1.5 km south-west of Agard Oudad, with a team of Moroccan firemen and some eighteen tonnes of paint. The land art work (art made in the landscape) stretches over several kilometres. The colours have faded, and a local man repainted them in 2010.
• Napoleon's Hat. Above the village of Agard Oudad, 3 km south of Tafraout, a granite outcrop bears this name, inherited from the colonial era.
• The Tazka gazelle. About 2 km south-west of Tafraout, a prehistoric gazelle engraving lies to the left of the path, about 200 m past the rocky bluff.
• The Ait Mansour gorge, about 30 km to the south, shelters a palm grove and earth-built villages.
• The Tizourgane kasbah is about 50 km to the north.

Climbing

Granite and quartzite make the area a climbing destination. Jebel el Kest has many faces of sound quartzite, and Agard Oudad is known for bouldering (climbing on low boulders, without a rope, above a crash pad). The best period runs from October to May; winter is the busiest season. Sabaro recommends that climbers bring their own gear and a topo (route guide), and plan several days on site.

When to come

The best period runs from September to May. Summers are very hot.

The almond blossom, at the end of winter, is the most popular time. The Almond Festival is usually held in February or March: in 2024, its 11th edition brought together the region's cooperatives over 2,000 m², selling fresh almonds, amlou (almond spread), almond oil and cosmetics. The 2027 dates have not yet been published. Sabaro recommends booking early for this period.

Getting organised

• Arriving. The nearest airport is Agadir-Al Massira. Tafraout is then about 160 to 170 km by road, through the mountains. A car, with or without a driver, is the simplest way to get around the villages.
• How many days. Two days for the Ameln Valley, the painted rocks and Ait Mansour; three or four for hiking or climbing.
• Combining. Tafraout fits well after Agadir or Taroudant, on a loop through the Anti-Atlas; Sabaro recommends adding Taroudant for its ramparts and the Tioute oasis.